Visible Mending: How to Darn a Hole in a Woollen Jumper

A hole in a favourite woollen jumper can feel like the end of the road. Often it is not. Darning is an old, calm and rewarding way to repair knitted fabric, and these days many people enjoy making the mend part of the design. You can match the colour to blend in or choose a contrasting shade to celebrate the repair. Either way, a darned jumper is a jumper that stays in your wardrobe for years longer.

What you will need

• A darning needle, which is blunt with a large eye
• Wool or yarn of a similar weight to the jumper, or a fine embroidery thread for lighter fabrics
• Small, sharp scissors
• A darning mushroom, a wooden egg or a smooth jar to support the fabric
• A few pins and some good light

Choose yarn that is similar in fibre to the jumper where you can. Wool on wool tends to wear and wash in the same way, so the repair ages alongside the original fabric.

Prepare the area

Lay the jumper flat and look closely at the hole. Trim any loose, frayed threads, but leave the surrounding knitting intact. If the hole is small, around the size of a coin, a simple darn works well. For very large tears or places that take a lot of strain, such as elbows, you might prefer a patch behind the hole, and our guide to five hand-sewing stitches every beginner should learn offers helpful stitches for that kind of repair.

Place the mushroom or jar under the hole so that the fabric lies smooth but not tight. If the knitting is stretched too much, the mend will pucker once released.

Step 1: Lay the foundation threads

Thread the needle with a length of yarn, about the length of your forearm, and avoid knotting the end. Starting a short distance away from the hole, on solid knitting, sew a row of tiny running stitches towards the hole, across it and out the other side into solid knitting. Leave a small loop of yarn at each turn instead of pulling tight, because the yarn needs room to move.

Work a row beside it, and keep the rows close together, side by side, until the whole hole and a margin of healthy fabric are covered.

Step 2: Weave across

Now turn the work around. Weave the needle over one thread and under the next across the first set of stitches, forming a woven patch. On the next row, reverse the pattern, so that where you went over before you go under. Pack the rows gently, but not too tightly. When the weaving reaches the edge of the foundation threads, it is time to finish.

Step 3: Finish neatly

Pass the end of the yarn to the inside of the jumper and weave it through several stitches on the wrong side. Trim it, leaving a short tail. Remove the mushroom and give the area a little gentle steam, holding the iron above the fabric, or press it with a cool iron and a damp cloth if the care label allows. Always check the instructions for the garment before applying heat.

Choosing your style

• Invisible mending: choose a close colour match and fine yarn for a subtle result.
• Visible mending: pick a bright or contrasting colour for a decorative effect, in a grid or a pattern.
• Tweed-style darn: blend two or three shades in the same family for a softer, textured look.

There is no right answer. A bold mend can become the best part of the garment.

Prevent the next hole

Check knitwear at the seams and elbows before the fabric thins too far, and reinforce weak spots early with a few light stitches. Wash woollens according to the label, and store them folded rather than hung, which can stretch them. A little regular care saves time and money in the long run.

Frequently asked questions

Can I darn machine-knitted jumpers? Yes. The method works for most knitted fabrics, though very fine or stretchy knits need a lighter yarn and a gentle touch.

Do I need a darning mushroom? No. A smooth jar, a tennis ball or a wooden spoon held under the fabric all do the job.

What if the hole is near a seam? Work carefully, and stitch into the seam allowance if you can. If the seam itself is coming apart, re-sew it first.