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Linocut Printing at Home: Cutting and Printing Your First Block

A calm, step-by-step introduction to linocut printing: the basic tools, how to carve a simple design safely and how to pull a clean print at home.

David Kemp30 October 20264 min read

Contents

  1. What you will need
  2. Choose a simple design
  3. Carving safely
  4. Inking and printing
  5. Troubleshooting
  6. Looking after your tools
  7. Frequently asked questions

Linocut is one of the most welcoming forms of printmaking. You carve a design into a soft block, roll ink over the surface and press paper on top, and the raised areas leave their mark. It needs very little equipment, it can be done at the kitchen table, and it rewards patience more than skill. Whether you want to make greetings cards, a small framed picture or a pattern to print onto fabric, a first block is a lovely quiet afternoon's work.

What you will need

A basic kit is inexpensive and widely available from art shops:

  • A small block of soft-cut lino or a rubber-like carving block, around 10 by 15 centimetres to begin with
  • A lino cutter with a few interchangeable blades, usually a fine V-shape and a wider U-shape
  • Water-based block printing ink, which cleans up with warm water
  • A rubber roller, often called a brayer
  • A smooth surface for rolling out ink, such as a sheet of glass or an old tile
  • Smooth paper, such as printmaking or thin cartridge paper
  • A wooden spoon or a baren for pressing
  • A bench hook or a non-slip mat to hold the block steady

Soft carving blocks are easier on the hands than traditional hard lino, so they are a good choice for beginners.

Choose a simple design

Linocut suits bold shapes, strong contrast and confident lines, so avoid tiny details at first. A leaf, a mug, a simple bird or a row of geometric shapes works well. Draw your design in pencil on paper at the same size as your block. Remember that printing flips the image, so any lettering has to be drawn in reverse. A quick way to check is to hold your drawing up to a mirror.

To transfer the design, lay the drawing face down on the block and rub the back firmly. Soft pencil leaves a faint image on the surface. Go over it with a fine marker so that you can see it clearly while you cut.

Carving safely

The golden rule is simple: the blade always travels away from your hands. Keep your free hand behind or to the side of the cutter, never in front of it, and use a bench hook or a mat to stop the block sliding. Cut slowly, taking shallow passes rather than trying to dig deep in one go. Take regular breaks, since tired hands slip. A plaster or two nearby is sensible, and if you cut yourself, stop and deal with it before carrying on.

Start by outlining your shapes with the fine V-shaped blade, then clear the larger background areas with the wider blade. Remember that anything you cut away will stay paper-coloured, and anything you leave standing will print. Many first-timers find it easier to carve the background rather than the lines.

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Inking and printing

Squeeze a small line of ink on to your glass and roll it back and forth until it makes a soft, tacky sound and the surface looks evenly covered. Less is more: a thin layer gives a crisp print, while too much will fill in the details. Roll the ink over your block in several directions.

Place the paper gently on top, then rub the back with a spoon or baren in small circles, applying firm pressure. Peel a corner to check, and lift the whole sheet slowly. Do not worry if the first print is patchy. Practice prints teach you how much ink and pressure to use. Lay the prints flat and leave them to dry.

Troubleshooting

  • Patchy ink: roll for longer, or use slightly more ink.
  • Smudged edges: use less ink, and check that the paper has not slipped.
  • Unwanted marks: raised bits in the background are likely to need trimming away with the blade.
  • Faint print: press harder and for longer, working across the whole block.

Looking after your tools

Wash the block, roller and glass with warm water as soon as you have finished, and dry them properly. Store the blades in their case, and keep the cutters well out of the reach of children. If the blades feel dull they can be sharpened with a little care, in the same spirit as our guide to sharpening a chisel by hand.

Frequently asked questions

Can I print on fabric? Yes, but use ink made for fabric and follow the manufacturer's instructions for setting it. Test on a spare scrap first.

Do I need a press? No. A spoon or baren gives good results for small blocks.

How many prints can I make from one block? A great many, as long as you keep the block clean and dry between sessions.

Steps

  1. Draw and transfer your design: Sketch a simple, bold design on paper, remembering that it will print in reverse, then transfer it to the lino block with a soft pencil.
  2. Carve away what should stay white: Hold the block steady with your free hand well behind the blade and cut away the areas that you do not want to print, working away from your body.
  3. Roll out and apply the ink: Spread a thin layer of water-based relief ink on a smooth surface, roll it until it sounds tacky and then cover the block with an even coat.
  4. Print and peel: Lay the paper on the inked block, rub firmly with the back of a spoon or a baren, then peel the print away slowly and leave it to dry flat.

Tags

  • linocut
  • printmaking
  • craft
  • beginner project
  • hand carving
D
David Kemp

The editorial team behind Calm Workshop.

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